(Not the usual angle.)
"This city is dedicated to lowest-common denominator attention-grabbing: boobs and lights and noise."
A fitting quote, expecially because of what happens after about midnight. Among other things, "very exotic" dancers become visible even from the streets themselves, girls that you've seen only a couple hours prior dressed in pajama-sweats and in full make-up. You know they can't be tourists, and if you've ever been involved in any type of performance activity – including those involving clothes staying on – you'll instantly recognize the standard pre-performance routine: everything's ready, you just have to put your costume on. Even if you perform without one.
This part, however, is what everyone else knows about Las Vegas already. The fact is that there is a side of the city – more precisely, a "mood" – that is less philistine and inebriated.
This is despite groups of Mexicans flicking 'courtesan' flyers at you 24 hours a day on every single intersection along the Strip – complete with guys with bicycles and whistles warning them when the police is near. This is also despite that just slightly after it gets dark, you can already see short-skirted and short-sleeved white people tip-toeing the sidewalks with bong-shaped drinks in hand, even though in the desert – just like in much of the world – it's cold in November.
In a sentence, there is a 'Vegas for those who treasure their brain cells over futile promises. And I had a weekend to find out what it was like.
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Las Vegas posts, all in one place:
Part I: Hoover Dam, Red Rock Canyon
Part II: Entertainment on the Strip
Part III: Restaurants, mobsters, & marriage
Wrap-up: All is not as they say